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Fermentations

What to do when the bottle of wine arrives at tableside

When the wine steward or sommelier brings a bottle of wine the table, they will present it to you for your inspection. You should first look at the label to see that it is the correct bottle of wine that you ordered… and that it is the correct vintage. Next you should lean towards the bottle and lay your hand on the side of the wine bottle to check the temperature of the wine. Red wine should be served at 65 degrees Fahrenheit. White wine should be served at 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Sparkling wine should be served at 45 degrees Fahrenheit. It is perfectly acceptable to have the bottle returned to be cooled/heated to the correct serving temperature. Remember, it is your money and you want to maximize your pleasure of drinking a good wine with your meal.

When the cork has been removed and the neck of the bottle is cleaned, the cork will be placed at the side of your plate for inspection. DO NOT PICK UP THE CORK AND SMELL IT. People who do this are seen by oenophiles as someone eating mashed potatoes with their fingers. Instead, check the nose of the wine in your glass before the wine steward serves the wine to your other guests.

Examine the cork to see that it is a long cork. A short cork is a sign of a cheap wine. A high quality cork is very fine grained and homogeneous in color, not blotchy and filled with small dark brown pockets. The writing on the cork should match the name on the bottle label. Look to see how far up the side of the cork the red wine stain has migrated (you can’t see this for white wines). A good cork will show wine stain migration no more than the width of a toothpick. Pick up the cork and press your thumbnail into its side. A good cork will not be hard or spongy – it will give under pressure and rebound to its original state immediately.

If the wine is presented to you with a screw-cap, do not be concerned. Most wineries today are slowly moving towards screw-caps for their premium wines. Make sure you check to see that the cap locks have not been broken. This may mean that someone has tampered with your bottle. Listen to the snapping sound as the server unscrews the cap. This sound is the seal breaking loose from the safety crimp around the neck of the bottle. If your server places the screw-cap at the side of your plate, it is acceptable to examine the cap quickly. Look for a smooth circular surface inside the cap where the cap meets the bottle. If there is a fold in the aluminum foil liner, there may be a problem with the wine.

Once you have approved the bottle and the cork/cap, the wine steward or sommelier will pour a small amount into you glass for your evaluation and approval before serving the other guests. Well-trained wait staff will hold a napkin under the lip of the bottle to prevent drops of wine accidentally falling from the neck of the wine bottle onto your lap, table or plate. Pick up your glass by the stem (never by the bowl or rim) and begin your evaluation.

Next time: Evaluating a wine.

- Chuck Blethen, Vigneron in Residence, Black Mountain Oasis Vineyard, Scottsdale, AZ
 

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